A Maputo weekend--for a change

This weekend we stayed in Maputo for the first time in a month. My body was clearly telling me this week to slow down and rest and I headed the warning. I was feeling better by Friday, so I asked one of our CDC drivers (Lileza, who is also a music dj) where to go that evening. He directed us to the French Cultural Center for some live music. He assured us that it would be a good show after checking the paper to see the acts that would be performing. The French Cultural Center was very interesting. It had a little art gallery, out door courtyard where there was live music, bar, and a semi indoor auditorium for a concert venue. (It had a roof, but was opened on the sides). We were thinking it was a cool idea and someone should open up something like it in DC. The music was really good. The drummers and accompanying dancers were amazing. There is no way I could move that fast! Then there was a group of musicians called Acoustic Africa. They were also really really good and played forever. I pooped out around 1 am and had to go home. Turns out I only missed the last song, but it had looked like they were going to play all night.

Saturday, our colleague Cate took us to the wood craft market. We were glad that she offered to take us because she had an idea of what to pay for things and can speak Portuguese. I bought some cute things for gifts and probably should have bought more, but I was in sensory overload by the end. People constantly are coming at you trying to sell you their things. They don’t even give you time to think and they gang up on you. It’s not annoying for like 5 minutes and then it gets old. I was getting a headache and we had to take a break for a drink and lunch. We walked a few blocks through the city and you can so see how everyone says that Maputo used to be the place to be. Before the Portuguese left and the civil war happened (mini history lesson—Portuguese left around 1975 and the civil war did not end until 92), Maputo rivaled Cape Town as the place to holiday. There really are some amazing old buildings in the city, but they are all falling apart now. Everything has just been neglected and it is rather sad. (Kind of reminds me of my hometown in this aspect). I think people are anticipating that the city will get it’s second wind and will be a totally different (and awesome) place in 10 years. It definitely has potential and after spending time here, I really hope for the Mozambican people that a change is coming.
So back to the market. I did enjoy my interaction with the “bead guy.” He had finished a little giraffe while I was there and I of course, could not pass it up. (If you did not already know this, I am obssessed with giraffes, as all of my travelmates found out the first time I saw a giraffe in the wild). He also wasn’t pushy. There was a lot of nice wood statues, but I couldn’t decide what I liked/wanted. (We have no idea where the alien looking heads on all of the people statues has come from, though. People say this is unique to Mozambique, so maybe at some time in history, Mozambique got taken over by aliens). Hopefully, I will get back to the wood market before I leave and will actually be able to make a decision. After the market, we went to Casa Elefante to buy capalanas (the material that women wrap into a skirt). They were closing, though, so we didn’t have a lot of time. I got a few pieces of material that I think can me made into pillows. Hopefully, I can make it back there, too. But then again, maybe I shouldn’t. I am already having anxiety at the thought of trying to get everything to fit in my suitcases for my return.
Sunday, our colleague Jackie finally arrived after spending the night in a sketchy hotel in Jo-Burg. We met up with her and found another Atlanta CDC colleague along the way, who had just arrived in Maputo, and headed to eat at the fish market. I was NOT a fan of where they sell the fish (the raw squid made me gag and if I start to think about it, I will gag again), but in the back there are a bunch of tiny restaurants that will cook your seafood the way you want it. Instead of us having to go and bargain for the raw food, they restuarants will do it for you. Then they bring the fish back to make sure it is to your liking before they cook it. Like I would know what a good raw whole fish looks like. I normally buy my fish in fillets at the supermarket. J There is something to be said for eating fresh seafood, though. It took a while, but everything was sooo good. We feasted on clams, prawns, and a big ol fish.

After this weekend, I feel I have now had the opportunity to spend time doing “all things Maputo.”